Hermès S/S 2019 Paris Fashion Week Women's

Scene setting: The Hippodrome de Longchamp might not count as one of Paris’ usual tourist attractions, but (if you have the time and the patience to sit around in the Parisian traffic as you make your way towards the edge of the 16th arrondissement) it’s worth it. In the heart of the Bois de Boulogne you will find an imposing building in gilded metal leading to the racetrack. That’s where Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski chose to show her latest outing for Hermès. But, contrary to what one might expect, it was not all about the equestrian world. ‘It’s about the horizon, along the edge between two worlds, between sky and land’, explained the designer in the press release. Indeed, a colossal slanted mirror reflected the blue sky and a few passing clouds, while the catwalk was covered in pale sand. ‘And what’s between those two things is the sea?’ the designer continued. ‘This time, we chose sailing’.
Mood board: At first glance, the ocean might have seemed an unlikely inspiration for a house better known for its equestrian influences but, as the designer explained, it all stemmed from a word-play between the terms ‘sailor' and ‘saddler'. And the clothes were the visual rendering of that idea. The show’s soundtrack may have been a cacophony of sounds composed over Mozart’s melancholy Piano Concerto No.23, but the collection was laser-focused: groom’s aprons were reworked into summer dresses, tied with sailor’s ropes. Vareuse shirts were reimagined in extra soft leather, and sturdy fisherman’s coats found new proportions, taking on the unmistakeable shade of Hermès orange. The idea was to transpose the often masculine inspiration of workwear into the feminine wardrobe. Or, As Vanhee-Cybulski put it, ‘what if Lord Jim had been a Lady, or Penelope a man and Ulysses his wife?'
Finshing touches: The minimalist charm of the collection made the accessories stand out more than usual. Models were clad in Greek-inspired flat sandals – not one high heel in sight – which looked extra-covetable, and carried some of the maison’s classic bags, plus one new addition: the Musardine, a big bucket bag with leather piping inspired by rustic horse-feeders. Which goes to show that, just like Ulysses, Vanhee-Cybulski knows how to find her way back home no matter what adventure she embarks on.
Hermès S/S 2019
Hermès S/S 2019
Hermès S/S 2019
Hermès S/S 2019
Hermès S/S 2019
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
These are the best new interior design projects in Australia
From a beachside retreat to a modern butcher shop, the 2025 Australian Interior Design Awards highlight the multitude of talent down under
-
Scotland's most opulent passenger train just got even more lavish
To mark four decades connecting stops across the majestic highlands, Belmond’s Royal Scotsman has revealed even more plush sleeping cars
-
‘Designers are far more than just producers of commercial goods’: Samuel Ross on the London Design Biennale
The artistic director of the major event and founder of A-COLD-WALL* discusses the role of a designer and the future of the sector in an exclusive interview
-
Horace’s new men’s scent is the linen shirt of the fragrance closet
Vetiver Primavera, the new fragrance from men’s grooming brand Horace, is casual but elegant, says Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary – a citrussy scent for summer
-
‘Don’t forget to get the bread!’ Serge Lutens writes an ode to a singular perfume
Published exclusively by Wallpaper*, Serge Lutens writes an ode to Jeux de Peau, a singular perfume of his creation inspired by a childhood memory of baking bread
-
French skincare brand PERS doesn’t believe in overcomplicated routines
French skincare brand PERS – an acronym for ‘protect, enhance, repair, and stimulate’ – has recently arrived in the UK. The mastermind behind it, Dr Antoni Calmon, tells Wallpaper* about his protocol
-
What did Christian Dior’s favourite ‘invisible’ flower smell like?
Dior’s Francis Kurkdijan recreates the scent of a rare lily of the valley species in Le Muguet, the first olfactory chapter of new perfume collection Les Récoltes Majeures
-
The best beauty products of the month, from a ‘revolutionary’ Dyson hairdryer to zingy Hermès nail polish
The best beauty products of the month, selected by Wallpaper*, include Dyson’s life-changing new hairdryer, zingy springtime nail polish by Hermès and skin barrier saviours by the likes of Dr Barbara Sturm
-
The best fashion moments at Milan Design Week 2025
Scarlett Conlon discovers the finest fashion moments at Salone del Mobile and Milan Design Week 2025, from Loewe’s artist-designed teapots to The Row’s first home collection
-
Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrast
The Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
-
This perfume bottle archive was nearly lost. Now, it offers a rare whiff of fragrance history
Fifty blueprints from a forgotten French crystal manufacturer will be for sale as part of the New York International Antiquarian Book Fair